In a bold move to redefine luxury watch retail, Breitling has selected Dubai as the launchpad for its innovative multi-brand strategy. This initiative, emphasized by Breitling’s global head, shifts the focus from merely selling products to cherishing heritage and storytelling, setting a new standard in the watchmaking industry.
A New Era at Dubai Watch Week
Breitling CEO Georges Kern unveiled a groundbreaking portfolio strategy during Dubai Watch Week. This initiative consolidates Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet under the “House of Brands” banner, signaling a pivotal transformation for the respected aviation watchmaker.
Strategic Acquisitions and Market Positioning
This announcement emerges as Breitling strategically positions itself across multiple price tiers. The company’s acquisition of Universal Genève for approximately 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) from Hong Kong-based Stelux Group in late 2023, followed by the recent acquisition of Gallet, forms the foundation of this new approach.
“The whole concept basically recalls the idea of having a complementary galaxy of legacy brands that can work together in different price points,” explained Gianfranco Gentile, Breitling’s Global Head of Heritage, in an exclusive interview with Arabian Business at the brand’s expansive pavilion in Dubai.
Celebrating Legacy and Innovation
Each of these brands possesses a rich history, with Gallet tracing its origins to 1826, and both Universal Genève and Breitling founded in 1894 and 1884, respectively. Their contributions to horological advancements are notable, from Breitling’s groundbreaking 1962 Cosmonaute—the first wristwatch in space—to Universal Genève’s Polerouter, one of Gérald Genta’s early designs.
As part of this new strategy, Universal Genève will operate as a distinct maison in the ultra-luxury segment, positioned at price points above Breitling. In contrast, Gallet will cater to entry-level luxury, both brands slated for relaunch in 2026. This strategic positioning considers the evolving behaviors of collectors who now navigate seamlessly through various categories, valuing heritage, design, and storytelling.
A Shift in Approach: Beyond Product Sales
Gentile underscored the significance of cultural relevance over simple product launches. “It’s not just about selling the new products,” he stated, referring to the pavilion’s “Time Tunnel” concept that highlights the brand’s rich history through graphic panels featuring vintage advertisements and significant timepieces.
The Universal Genève display showcases vintage highlights, including the Compax chronographs and the Polerouter, one of the first watches crafted for civil aviation to soar over the North Pole with SAS.
Distinct Brand Identities and Future Directions
Breitling’s enduring definition of air, land, and sea continues to be central to its identity. However, the House of Brands concept allows for clear differentiation. Gallet will emphasize themes of adventure and functionality, leveraging its legacy as a supplier of chronographs for aviators and mountaineers. “Gallet clearly has a very distinctive image. It’s not like a copy of Breitling as it happens with other assisted brands or famous brands,” Gentile affirmed.
Guided by Kern since 2017, Breitling has surged into the top ten Swiss watch brands by revenue, with sales nearing $1 billion in 2022, according to Morgan Stanley data. The timing of Breitling’s multi-brand launch comes at a critical juncture as luxury watchmakers adapt to changing consumer preferences.
Choosing Dubai Watch Week for this significant announcement underlines the event’s rising prominence. The platform has established itself as a key player in contemporary horology, drawing brands eager to unveil limited editions and innovative developments.
“It was the most significant of the announcements because it basically marks the transition from a single brand to a house of brands,” Gentile noted.
The pavilion’s design further illustrates this strategic shift, with Universal Genève featuring an elegant 1960s haute couture ambiance, while Gallet’s section embodies adventure and exploration. Central to this is Breitling’s contemporary luxury ethos.
With the planned relaunches of both acquisitions set for 2026, Breitling is poised to adeptly manage multiple heritage brands, all while preserving their unique identities.