Delving into ZEGNA’s Dubai strategy reveals a blend of family succession, ambitious global expansion, and a record-setting sale that marks a pivotal moment for the luxury brand. At the forefront of this dynamic transformation is Gildo Zegna, Chairman and CEO of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, who is steering the company through a unique evolution. This article explores how ZEGNA has embraced Dubai not just as a market, but as a cultural hub that epitomizes the brand’s future ambitions.
It’s day three of VILLA ZEGNA, an exclusive, invitation-only club that merges fashion exhibition with cultural gathering – a fitting backdrop for the impeccably attired guests. The ZEGNA-fication of Dubai unfolds over six days, as the opera house’s advanced, 2,000-seat auditorium transforms into a stunning desert oasis of red sand and palm trees. This innovative approach serves as the stage for the Summer 2026 show, a groundbreaking decision that sees the brand bypass its traditional Milan Fashion Week presentation in favor of unveiling the collection in Dubai.
“Unbelievably, we even had the president of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana promoting our show here,” exclaims Gildo. “Carlo Capasa did not take it personally that we took the show away from Milan. Rather, he believed that we exported a piece of Milan to Dubai.”
History in the Making
“We brought the most fantastic show I’ve ever encountered,” Gildo declares. “And I’m not just saying that because I’m ZEGNA! It was subtle, elegant, innovative, lightweight, and fresh.” Regional celebrities like Kadim Al Sahir and Anas Bukhash adorned the front row as Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori showcased the Oasis collection, featuring relaxed, lived-in styles and a diverse cast that brought added sophistication to the event. “As designers, we do half of the work; the rest happens when clients interpret pieces day by day,” Alessandro shares in the show notes. “This individual, non-standard interpretation today is on the catwalk, showing the ZEGNA view in its natural environment: life.”
This marks the first occasion where a fashion show is coupled with curated cultural programming and Very Important Client (VIC) engagements showcasing Dubai exclusives, elevating it to ZEGNA’s most ambitious project since its centennial celebrations in 2010. “It has been an incredible pioneering moment for us to create a fully integrated event that brings the best of Milan Fashion Week together with the best of VILLA ZEGNA,” Gildo continues. “It’s been six months in the planning, and I give credit, in particular to Edo and to Alessandro who have put together a unique experience, which I believe will be written in the history books of the company.”
The New Centre of the World
Throughout his visit to the UAE, Gildo has expressed his belief that Dubai represents “the new centre of the world.” He elaborates on his reasoning: “Number one, because it is international. Number two, because it is affluent. Number three, because it’s open to new styles.” He notes, “In the past, there used to be other important markets. Today, Dubai is the new centre of the world because it has a modernity, an energy, and an open mind to people, activities, and lifestyle that is quite unique, and it’s positioned right in the middle of the world, making it very attractive logistically.”
Angelo Zegna, CEO of the EMEA region and Global Client Strategy Director, reinforces this perspective by pointing out, “Dubai Mall is our number one store in the world because we believed in the potential of this market. We probably hold the best location in the most visited mall globally. The Middle Eastern consumer values quality and connects with the authentic stories that ZEGNA shares.”
Gildo credits the brand’s early investment in Dubai, sharing, “We came in when Dubai Mall opened in 2008, and we were able to grasp the location at an early stage, protect it, expand it, and renew it.” The ZEGNA boutique is currently under renovation, with plans to unveil a new lounge by October 2025 for personalized VIC appointments.
The Business of Luxury
ZEGNA’s VICs have catapulted Dubai to the top of the brand’s spending charts, with Angelo revealing that the day after the fashion show – the first day of private appointments at VILLA ZEGNA – resulted in “the largest transaction in the history of ZEGNA.” This success underscores the effectiveness of merging the show with cultural engagements and direct client opportunities for the first time.
“We cater to clients who already own everything – from cars to homes – so unless you surprise them with novelties that create excitement, they have no reason to shop,” Gildo explains. “We are focusing on experiences and emotions. The fashion show was an emotional moment because it created something new that people wanted in an exclusive way.” This, he emphasizes, is the essence of personalization – owning something made uniquely for you, done in a timely fashion.
With a fully integrated supply chain that is “from sheep to shop,” ZEGNA is poised to offer bespoke customization more effectively than anyone else in the industry. Gildo poses the challenge, “What other brand has an integrated supply chain? I can’t think of anybody. Every step of the process, from the farm in Australia down to creating the ultimate bespoke garment delivered in Dubai, is under our control.”
Angelo adds, “From our experience, having complete control of the supply chain has granted us a significant advantage. It allows us to innovate more than if we outsourced production.” He echoes the sentiments of renowned designer Elie Saab, emphasizing the importance of keeping artisans integral to the brand’s identity rather than outsourcing.
ZEGNA’s Succession Playbook
The Zegna family isn’t alone among the Italian fashion legacies committed to ensuring their brand’s longevity. “We operate on meritocracy,” Gildo states. “If family members are talented and express an interest in working with us, they go through a process where governance is key. If they excel, they have a chance; if not, they don’t.” He points to Angelo and Edoardo as notable successes, both of whom report directly to him.
Interestingly, Gildo notes that when he first led a private company in Italy, he was among the first to establish an independent board of directors, illustrating his commitment to effective governance. However, he underscores, “There is no intention to sell the business. We remain at the forefront of the organization, with the family retaining control of the public company.”
Angelo, educated in the U.S. with an MBA from Harvard, brings significant international experience to the family business, taking roles in top firms before becoming Head of Retail and Merchandising, followed by his current title as CEO of EMEA and Global Client Strategy Director. Edoardo shares a similar background, holding a BA from Georgetown and advancing through various roles before becoming Chief Marketing, Digital, and Sustainability Officer.
“Dubai Mall is our number one store in the world because we believed in the potential of this market.” – Angelo Zegna on the power of regional retail
Their father observes, “You cannot generalize; each company is unique. The preparation is key. They were educated in top institutions, worked abroad, and understand the world, all while possessing the passion to excel, fitting in seamlessly with our organization.”
Footprints in the Sand
ZEGNA is not the only Italian fashion dynasty with a rich history and a compelling story. Brunello Cucinelli, for example, purchased a castle to serve as his company’s headquarters, dedicating himself to its restoration. Likewise, Ferruccio Ferragamo’s acquisition of the medieval village of Il Borro in Tuscany has evolved into a luxurious venture encompassing a hotel, winery, and olive oil distillery.
Amid such legacies, the Oasi Zegna is perhaps less recognized. It is a vast biodiverse reserve in Northern Italy, home to half a million trees, and ZEGNA is eager to unveil its significance in Dubai. “In 1910, Ermenegildo Zegna envisioned a forest where others saw barrenness,” notes the exhibition’s text displayed at VILLA ZEGNA. Enhanced by ambient sounds of birds and playful lambs, guests embark on an evocative journey exploring the connection between nature and luxury.
Edoardo, as the great-grandson of Ermenegildo Zegna and Chief Marketing, Digital, and Sustainability Officer, feels a deep resonance with the Oasi. “The founder did not do it for money or fame; he did it because it was right,” he asserts, celebrating the timeless legacy encapsulated in the brand’s authentic narrative. He emphasizes this connection by showcasing a discreet symbol sewn into his attire, marking the 232 Road leading to the reforestation project.
“The founder did not do it for money. He didn’t do it for fame. He didn’t do it for ego. He did it because he felt it was right” – Edoardo Zegna on his strong personal connection to Oasi Zegna
Empire-Building According to ZEGNA
“I wouldn’t call it an empire,” Gildo remarks modestly, before adding, “It’s a small kingdom.” In December 2021, ZEGNA transitioned to a public company through a merger with a U.S.-listed investment vehicle, raising $761 million while maintaining majority control for the Zegna family. By 2024, the group encompassing ZEGNA, TOM FORD Fashion, and Thom Browne achieved revenues of €1,946.6 million, a 2.2% annual increase, and a profit of €90.9 million.
So, what secrets have propelled the Zegna family to success where others have faltered? “We are pioneers. A pioneer takes risks and without risk, there’s stagnation. When we spot opportunities with over 50% success potential, we take them. We’re a bit incoscienti,” he quips, referring to the Italian term for ‘reckless.’ “Believe in the new and take chances.”
Gildo does acknowledge that entering China in 1991 presented higher risks than establishing a presence in Dubai in 2008. However, he is realistic about the reality of failure. “If you fail, you start over. In both Dubai and Beijing, we were right. In smaller ventures, we failed because we were too early; the case of India illustrates that.”
ZEGNA’s Next Moves in the Middle East
“Retail is now,” Gildo confirms. “If you want to go direct, you must stay on top of the situation every day. In the Middle East, we currently have 15 stores, and our target is to expand to at least 20 in the near future. Of these, two-thirds will be directly managed and one-third franchised, but we aim to convert franchises to direct ownership over time.” He expresses pride in their joint venture with Al Tayer in Dubai, emphasizing that they are the majority stakeholders.
The hope is that migrating the Summer 2026 show from Milan and taking over VILLA ZEGNA at Dubai Opera will act as a catalyst to elevate the brand’s success beyond Dubai. Gildo also has his eyes on Saudi Arabia, commenting, “We don’t want to over-expand but I see a significant opportunity in Saudi Arabia by 2030. But we won’t open too many stores at once; growth must be gradual.” Currently, they have one store there, with plans to expand to three without yet establishing a presence in Jeddah.
He ponders, “Will Saudi Arabia be as large a market for us as Dubai? I doubt it, but I believe a part of our growth will come from Riyadh. I see Doha as another promising market, yet Dubai remains unique.”
Gildo emphasizes, “The brand’s success is not a one-size-fits-all approach. It’s about brand maturity and understanding how likely your brand is to resonate with local customers. Timing is crucial.” He advises retailers to “assess where you are today, envision your future, and follow the flows of your customers. Different customers may have varying preferences, so anticipate their desires.”
“It’s the new centre of the world, because it has a modernity, an energy, and an open mind to people, to activities, to lifestyle, which is quite unique.” – Gildo Zegna on Dubai’s rising global status
ZEGNA and Dubai: Two Success Stories, One Mindset
With Dubai Mall crowned as his top store and the highest transaction in ZEGNA’s history executed at VILLA ZEGNA following the Summer 2026 show, Gildo recognizes the intricate connection between ZEGNA’s success and Dubai’s trajectory. “In the post-COVID era, I’ve witnessed a remarkable expansion in this area, coinciding with ZEGNA’s growth. The two have thrived together, helping each other along the way.”
Reflecting on the transformation of ZEGNA, he notes, “Our modernized approach has positioned us among the market leaders. We’ve grasped the need for immediately wearable products that cater to impulse buyers and embody innovation.”
Dubai and ZEGNA, both on a remarkable ascending path, raise thoughts on sustainability for the emirate’s multigenerational legacy similar to ZEGNA’s own. “It’s a broad inquiry! I’m flattered you asked, but I can’t say I’m qualified to answer,” he hesitantly admits.
Yet, embracing the challenge, he shares, “Continue in your current direction and maintain enthusiasm for your endeavors by nurturing talent, modernity, and technology. You possess an extraordinary organization, a remarkable project, and invaluable resources. So just persist in your current strategies, especially those developed over the last five years. Be sure to prioritize execution. My one concern is that Dubai may be advancing too rapidly. Keep your quality of service, people, and experiences at a high standard as you have in the past five years. Every time I visit, I feel an adrenaline surge. So, Dubai needs to maintain its energetic momentum.”
Using ZEGNA as an example, Gildo reveals, “We attract a thousand visitors to our store every day, and that’s significant by any standard. Capitalize on this moment, showcase your strengths, pursue innovation, never relent, and maintain your entrepreneurial spirit.” He concludes with a message to ensure a robust high-end positioning, and reflecting on ZEGNA’s week-long energy in Dubai, he asserts, “I believe this event illustrates our potential to reach even greater heights.”
Words: Alison Tay
Creative Direction: Marne Schwartz
Photography: Vladimir Martí
Executive Production: Drew Brown
Design: Geri B. Sonny